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by Frederick Lee
An experience beyond words, you just have to be there.
 Arizona sits in the most southwestern part of the America’s Southwest, an area famous for its distinctive landforms and unique vegetation. It is, after all, the Grand Canyon state with its iconic Saguaro cactus. Early explorers of the land have discovered that within a few hours traveling, the area’s diversity reflects the arid desert of Mexico to the lush coniferous forests of Canada. One strong reason to put Arizona as a photographic destination is that most major sites are within driving distances and can be covered in a week or longer. Driving in Arizona (except in the City of Phoenix) is pleasant and unhurried. North of Flagstaff, the route is very scenic with elevations varying between five to seven thousand feet. Although the key attractions are centered on the unusual landforms, yet each site has its unique quality and poses different photographic challenges. I have always loved the mystical images of slot canyons; its surreal colours and sublime shadows. But the experience of being cloistered within narrow canyon walls is beyond words. By contrast, it is a different feeling when dwarfed by the majestic sandstone formations in Monument Valley Navajo Reservation. For me, what started as a photographic endeavour ended in a greater enrichment in human experience; an engagement with nature on its own terms.
Antelope Canyon - Looking Up
AntelopeCanyon
is located along Highway 98 on the way to Page, thenorthern-most town
in Arizona. The Mecca of slot canyons, yet you caneasily miss it as it
is not marked on most maps. The best landmark isPage power station with
its three chimneys. There are two parts to thecanyon; the Upper and
Lower Antelope Canyon, both discharge into LakePowell. Driving north,
you can see road signs leading to the respectivecanyons after passing
the power station. The Navajo folks at the UpperCanyon offer two types
of tours, one for tourists and a longer one forphotographers. Slot
canyon photography is challenging on both thetechnical and aesthetic
fronts. Since lighting inside the canyondepends mainly on reflections,
it is difficult to assess the effectthese have on the sandstone rock
surfaces. One lesson that I havelearned is that the camera’s sensor
does see a lot more of the colourspectrum than the human eyes can. This
is especially true on the blueend. Experiment with the White Balance
setting and use the histogramfor optimal exposure control. Strong
highlights can ruin your image, sothe overexposed highlight warning is
a very useful feature in thissituation. Personally, I find the
aesthetic challenge the greaterbetween the two. But first we must
locate the potential areas and thisis where local knowledge comes in
very useful. A photographer who isfamiliar with the location can point
you to potential spots andindicate their salient features that are not
obvious with a passingglance. I had the good fortune of meeting Jackson
Bridges of OverlandCanyon Tours in Page. Being a photographer, he was
able to point me tojust the right places in Canyon ‘X’, another slot
canyon in the area. Ireally needed it as the five-hour tour passes much
quicker thanexpected. A final thought on slot canyon photography; don’t
pass thosedark areas too quickly, allow your eyes to adjust for a few
minutes andtake another look. You’ll be surprised how much more there
is. Engagenature on its own terms.
Near Entrance - Antelope Canyon
WB: Incandescent
WB: Cloudy
Monument Valley is a visual splendor of timeless forms and
magnitude.Hidden in obscure corners are the most unexpected landforms
carved overmillions of years. The Valley is located on the Arizona side
of theborder with Utah; you actually have to drive north into Utah
beforeheading south into the reservation. The scenic drive along
Highway 163is a foretaste of greater sights to come. I was tempted
several timesto stop by the roadside just to record the scene but was
put off bysafety considerations. There is a seventeen-mile, self-drive
trackwhich is passable to a family sedan, but you would need to
negotiate itcarefully because of the rough terrain and poor road
holding that thesand and small pebbles offer. However, the better views
are not on thistrack. You need to hire a Navajo guide to bring you to
the prime placesand I did just that; without regrets. There are just so
manymagnificent geologic formations (the local Navajo call them
monuments)that to photograph each individually would require a few
days. I am notaware of sunrise tours, but there are tours that include
the sunsethours. Be mindful that during the winter months, the sun sets
early(about 5.00 pm) and quickly. To display sufficient details of
themonuments, composition is best confined to no more three of them
withina frame. Natural lighting plays an important role here, so be
preparedto stay after nightfall for sunset shots. Since working
distances arequite long, mid-focal zoom lenses (about 24-85mm) work
best. Again, fora short visit, take advantage of local knowledge. The
local Navajoguides know the times and places for the best shots. You
want to benice to them in some practical way.
Monument Valley - Left Mitten
The success of a photographic trip depends largely on one’s preparation.
Ifyou plan to drive, work out all your routes beforehand and include
reststops for long journeys. I have been using a mapping GPS receiver
thispast year and have found it more convenient than paper maps. I
stillcarry them though. Next, decide on a list of basic equipment
andaccessories you are expected to use. Anticipate the number of shots
youexpect to take and carry a memory device large enough to
accommodateall the images. I prefer to carry additional CF cards in the
field anddownload them in the evening when back in the hotel room.
There is justtoo much to contend with in the field than to have to
worry aboutdownloading into portable memory devices. With stuff like
batteries,you need spares. Make all your bookings for accommodation and
tourarrangements well in advance as most National Parks in the US have
verylimited facilities. In some cases, bookings as far as a year in
advanceare needed. Planning also includes having the appropriate
clothing andfootwear for the season. The best times of the day to
photograph arealso the times when normal folks are having their
breakfasts ordinners. You may not like to deprive yourself of basic
creaturecomforts.
Monument Valley - Mittens and Merrick
This trip to Arizona was my first. I made extensive pre-trip searches
ofphotographic sites on the internet about these locations. I made
notesof the exact spots and the best angles. As an example, not
allviewpoints along the Southern Rim of the Grand Canyon are good
forsunrise and sunset shots. Viewing images by others can indicate a
lotabout the view to expect and the lighting angles. This saves a lot
oftime when at the location and improves the yield of ‘keepers’. My
tripto Arizona began months before I left and the experience continues
tolinger and endure in my images long after it ended. Best of all, I
cannow share them with family and friends.
Copyright © by Frederick Lee 2007
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